👍Maximum Derek👍

Future winner of the Nobel Prize in Minecraft.

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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 26th, 2023

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  • They always spend like an hour in the hallways outside the Penn and Teller Theater after shows meeting fans. The people who crowd around Teller are often magicians because he is notoriously generous when it comes to helping other magicians. They both are really, but I think a majority of successful magicians in the US have a trick in their repertoire that Teller helped out with in some way or another.

    I just love that, after being silent all show, he comes out and talks enthusiastically with fans and colleagues.









  • A few years ago they started to wrap them in black plastic to slow thefts. And they found it lead to them getting mistreated by shipping companies a lot more - and fewer working printers were ultimately making it to people.

    I’ve seen speculation in the 3d printer community that when people see a foreign origin package that just squeaked under the import duty cost and wrapped in black they assume it’s something for some rich jerk and may treat the package accordingly. But when they see it’s a tool frequently used for regular folks to set up a side hustle, they’re nicer to it.


  • Assuming you’re talking about FDM/FFF printing and not SLA or sintering:

    There’s a bit of a catch-22 when it comes to mating flat 3d printed surfaces: The face that’s on the build plate will be the flattest and result in the smallest seam. It’s also the face most likely to be dimensionally inaccurate because of elephant footing, which can result in a ridge at the seam. And the easy fix for having an elephant foot it adding a chamfer, which results in a big visible seam. So my actual advice is:

    1. get your first layer super-duper dialed in
    2. then make sure “elephant foot correction” (or whatever your slicer may call it) is turned off in your slicer (or it’ll add a 0.4mm chamfer for you)
    3. make sure your mating faces are face down on the bed
    4. avoid textured build plates if you can

    And if aesthetics are a high priority consider using an automotive filler primer (I buy it in spray cans) and then painting the piece after it’s glued. Filler primer will help hide the seam and layer lines.