I’ve used Spotify with subscription on android for years and never had any issue with it. The Web and desktop apps have also worked well for the last decade or so.

Deezer, Newpipe, YouTube have all had their places, but Spotify does it’s thing the best.

A conceivable way could be to disrupt the nuclear force of the target atoms, maybe like an anti-Pion/Gluon ray that self-propagates the reaction through the released energy.

(As we might remember, splitting the atom yields a bunch of energy, and uncontrolled such reactions go Hiroshima)

It might be controlled by sub-particle lensing, probably some kind of magnetic field, to be active at a specific distance.

For the reaction to be contained, either there’s a radially limiting component (air is not particle dense enough to propagate the reaction, or atoms not energy dense enough) or it’s a cascade triggered by the beam which stops when the beam stops (or the reaction gets too far away from it)

As I believe Pions and Gluons are their own anti-particles, I don’t know how we would go about doing this, but hey, that’s for Science!™ to solve.

What is this thread but people yelling at clouds?

Board games have been nearly ruined by kickstarter.

Instead of buying a well reviewed and recommended game from a store, you have to back a hyped up sales pitch, and then wait 4 months for delivery, if the producers don’t just bail with your money or go “oops, we couldn’t finish what we promised, and we already spent all your money…”.

And if you don’t back it to later read the reviews, the game is out of print and still waiting for the first wave of deliveries, meaning a second print is still at least a year off.

Also, the ratings are heavily skewed by people rating on the hype or early/review copies, meaning the rankings are heavily amazonified.

EtA: Also games are heavily bloated with social media candy: heavy and fragile minis, box stands, blingy crap periferals (branded dice holding toucan) and still needing organisers, player aids and mods from third parties who’ve gotten review copies to make said supplements…

Oh, and the stretch goal extras (get another 150 vanity minis/3D printed scoring tokens) for only $150 and an 18 month wait!

At least once you can

The 20% survive at least twice as long, it seems KN has some positive effect.

It’s not like there’s no attrition after the first 5 years. Also, the show started 15 years ago, so the stats are even better.

That’s good numbers, normally 80% of restaurants die in 5 years.

Precisely, so the Federation may be anarchist, even though the member races aren’t.

With what we know about how the Federation interacts with other races and planets, real world logic would indicate that the humans could be (and live) the model that the Federation is built upon.

All this is conjecture ofc, and is probably as much an exercise in understanding post-scarcity anarchism as possible Star Trek lore :p

Which is inherently anarchist :P

As it seems a common confusion in this thread, I repeat, anarchism doesn’t have to be without government or rules, several forms of anarchism are focused on not limiting individuals freedoms and/or not allowing power over eachother (while accepting government and rules not contrary to that). Both of which I believe describe how the Federation works.

The tech is called Window farm and had a quite large, global community developing the system for simplicity, climates and yield. I haven’t looked at it since pre-pandemic times, but the site seems to have been updated since.

Check it out, there’s a lot of cool solutions upcycling everyday objects!

As for NFT, I haven’t tried it yet, but have had Kratky, DWC, Ebb & Flow, window farm, and am currently designing an aeroponics system to play around with.

Haven’t ever chosen NFT as the simple setups require a lot more supports and/or floor area than I can comfortably accommodate. And DWC/Kratky with a bubbler seems to outperform it with less fiddling or effort.

I’m now curious to see if aeroponics will lower the water usage, and how it will affect yields.

For home use, I’d suggest DWC, with or without bubbler, as probably the most yield/fun for least hassle. Having multiple plants in the same system will always lead to complications and unnecessary mass death.

A typical window garden runs on an ebb & flow, with flooding happening at intervals according to climate and plant needs. Evaporation will be different in Finland than Cuba.

I’m curious as to how you come to think NFT would be more space efficient? The vertical window garden setup in the picture should be able to fit more foliage than the side-by-side configuration most NFT seems to use.

That’s one form of it, but there are plenty other schools of thought that overlap quite significantly with the Federation, check out the primer on Wikipedia.

Anarchist doesn’t need to mean without government, simply that no one is above another, which is echoed in how the Federation is structured towards the other races.

I’d say they’re post-scarcity anarchist. There’s no central/communal resource dispersal as needed for socialism, nor the central/communal resource allocation/planning needed for communism.

There’s seemingly no authority outside starfleet exerting any power, nor does anyone ever claim a motivation beyond exploration or study (to do something meaningful). The lack of money and unlimited access to replicated resources pending available dilithium also points to a society without exploitative discrepancies.

The humans also never are reported to have any resource hogging, the only tensions/stratification seem to be militarily (and against external parties also diplomatically), meritocratic, and even then the bottleneck seems mostly to be to not fall behind other races.

I don’t see neither capitalism, socialism, communism, despotism, theocracy, nor fascism, but many aspects of anarchism. If you’ve read anything about The Culture, they openly speak about being anarchist, and it’s very similar to Star Trek.

Line it with ground cover fabric and you don’t have to care about material, rot or anything ;)

I built a wood planter on legs with no bottom, attached ground cover fabric in a sling/U-shape that hung a bit away from the wood in all sides.

A dm of LECA, then soil and compost as per usual. LECA makes for nice drainage and water reservoir.

Keeping the soil away from the wood made it so I’ve had no rot or degradation at all for 6 years as air comes in around to dry it all out.

Sizewise I covered the whole short end, and made it deep enough to fit the door and other furniture, about 40x60x195 cm.

Check out figure 2 it shows equivalent cooling in energy units. Meaning how much energy is carried away by perspiration, and showing it for different levels of humidity. I read it as between 5-10% lower at higher humidity.

Compare that to the radiant heat difference (from 32 degrees to 22, as per the cooling chart) which cools you about 286 % more. And with convective cooling we expect even more at higher temperature differences.

(Calculated with Boltzmanns law for 310 K body temperature)

Check the source, net difference is 10%

You are unfortunately wrong in your scepticism, they’ve been used for millennia to great effect, and are even part of how ice was made.

In a modestly arid climate (like a mountainous region) with 30% ambient humidity, you can achieve, a 12 °C drop, that’s a lot more than the ~10% of lost sweat cooling.

Alternate plan (as it would be a shame to waste a dam): Keep the dam, flood the Baltic sea until Kaliningrad is under water?

And in case your brain works in a way that needs steps, for a practice trip I’d suggest these steps:

0. Prepare everything you need according to your boat, waters, weather, safety needs and trip. Make sure to double check that you have everything you need before casting off.

… Get out on the water, prepare the rig you want to practice, etc…

1. Pick a direction you want to go in, note a landmark, buoy, or something stationary to steer towards. If you don’t pick a direction straight against or with the wind, the rest will be easier.

2. Try adjusting your sails to give you some speed. If you have a common Bermuda rig, start with your foresail, it’s going to be easier to see when it’s good, and it will give you speed enough to steer. I usually teach it as: take the sail in until it gets that nice billowed curve, and then let it out again until it just about can’t keep it. Then do the same with the mainsail.

Note that if the boat changes angle against the wind, you’ll have to adjust the sails and/or start over. When you’re starting out, you’ll have no chance to keep the boat going straight for long enough to both hit your landmark and trim your sails.

3. Check your course against your goal, try to adjust course a bit (10-15 degrees) and adjust the sails as needed.

4. Now try keeping course against the wind rather than the landmark. Can you sail with the wind straight from the side? How do you adjust the sails for that? How does that affect what you need to do with the tiller to keep straight?

5. Repeat for different wind angles. Also, note that winds change around obstacles, sails, and with time of day. Typically not a deal breaker, but enough to be confusing if you’re not aware.

This is probably enough for the first dozen trips. Remember to save energy to be able to get back, moor, and set everything ship shape again.

As you get more comfortable, you can try doing tacks (same sail adjustment procedure), then try doing a tack so that you only need to adjust the foresail, then maybe trying deliberate listing, sailing donuts (with continuous sail adjusting) with a gybe, and then onto maneuvering tasks like stopping at a buoy, doing a figure of eight Man-overboard maneuver, picking up something out of the water.

And somewhere along this you start doing actual boating, learning to moor, anchoring, cooking, planning your days, routes, planning for weather, etiquette with other boats, etc.