No french animation? Cause The Illusionist is a hell a of movie.

Almost everything in your house has a manual. The furnace, the ac, the water heater, the water softener, the coffee maker, the fridge… they all have manuals. If the people before you weren’t responsible and you don’t have a packet of manuals somewhere, go through everything and download them. They all say exactly how to do maintenance for each thing, and how often.

Other than that it’s mostly looking around and making sure nothing is actively being eaten. Take a flashlight and look around in the attic and basement or crawl space or whatever your can’t normally see and make sure things aren’t moldy or rotting. If you catch things earlier it’s always cheaper and easier.

It’s significantly easier to do with a straight razor. The chin and moustache area would take way more time and effort to do properly, and are way easier to mess up and cut yourself on. So it’s lazy, just ancient lazy.

They don’t show the labels because the brand didn’t pay. If you see a label with a brand on it they probably paid.

For a cooking show it’s probably not going to be worth the time and effort to get a contract in place for every ingredient, so you only see it occasionally.

To be fair, people are generally coming around to it and it’s kind of on it’s way to being a cult classic now. People say this about everything but it was actually ahead of its time in terms of its visual style and the way it deals with the serious elements within the wild cartoon visuals.

Weirdly, I kind of think Marvel movies like Guardians might have been the thing that tipped the scales. The breakneck editing is still way ahead of anything I’ve seen since though.

If that’s the case then yeah, probably not the best option. They need their own hub and run on weird 433mhz band radios.

Ok, that makes sense. In general for switches I recommend the Caseta ones from Lutron. They also make a motion sensor, which would mean you wouldn’t need a hub if you don’t already have one. Downside is they’re much more expensive than other switches, upside is they work so much better it’s worth the price difference.

Do you need more automation than regular 3 way motion switches you can get at the hardware store? They’re relatively cheap and cover a surprising amount of needs without having to rely on anything other than the switch.

From a technical level you should use something lossless in this situation, but it really quickly becomes impractical. Actually lossless 1080p60 is going to be something like 500mbps, so if you’re playing for an hour I hope you have a spare 2tb drive laying around. The artifacts in really high bitrate compressed video are so minimal that they basically don’t matter. Often codecs do noise removal first thing so whatever minor artifacts still exist will get smeared over by that anyway.

Also when you are testing make sure there’s some movement in the video. AV1 especially has modes for presentations and things that basically make a PowerPoint, so sizes might be unrealistic if you’re just recording your desktop. I don’t think that gets enabled in handbrake but it’s been a while since I looked.

If you’re seeing any artifacts in the original video, you probably need to re-record in a higher bitrate. It needs to look identical to uncompressed. Your later encodes will be trying to encode all the artifacts in the original video, which could be why the file sizes keep getting bigger - you’re giving it noisier video than the original.

50mbps for recording as an intermediate like that is well within the realm of normal. You can try having obs record in 264 with a quality setting instead of a bitrate setting, which can save space when things are more static - something like cq 6 or lower can do pretty well.

Unfortunately, yeah finding the sweet spot does take forever. One thing I would recommend is once you have an idea where you want to land, try a few much longer videos and see what the differences are. Slower paced sections might compress much better than the fast action stuff in one codec or another. Again it’s all kind of a balancing act on where you want to be.

In the third screenshot, preset is on 7, change that to 4. That’s the speed setting - 7 is trying to do it in close to real time, 4 will take much longer but be much more efficient.

Can you post a screenshot of your Handbrake settings? You should definitely be getting better efficiency than that.

Because it’s just for personal archival, I would recommend recording in super high bitrate 264 or 265 depending on what your card can do in real time, then compressing that file later using either av1 or 265, depending on which works better for the content.

If you’re playing in 1440p165, then you should record that to start although if it’s an option I would play and record at 1080p120. 1440 is a bit of an odd duck resolution that some stuff doesn’t really like, but it’s getting better all the time so it’s not a huge deal. More important is 120fps because if you decide to go down to 60 or even 30fps they split evenly, which is important since it means the extra frames just get thrown out. There’s no 82.5 frame so it either has to blend two together or pick one that’s at the wrong time, and neither looks good.

Record in OBS using like, 25-40mbps in whatever your graphics card can do realtime, with all the audio tracks in something lossless like FLAC. High enough it might as well be uncompressed.

Once you have your gameplay recording from OBS, use either Handbrake or FFMPEG to convert it to your long term storage format. Since this is such a big project I would make some samples using cheats to get an idea what the bullet-hell-iest parts will look like, then try a few different handbrake or ffmpeg settings, and see what gives you the tradeoff of file size and quality that you like. It’ll also give you a ballpark idea about how much long term storage you’ll need.

Non-realtime encoding like ffmpeg and Handbrake is much more efficient than realtime done by your graphics card, like on the order of like half the file size for the same quality - that’s why you want the two step process. It also allows you to play in 120fps for that responsiveness, but watch at 60 or even 30fps to save some file size.

When you set up handbrake, you’ll have a few settings to play with and make samples from - encoder, quality level, speed, fps, and rescaling.

Encoder is probably the most important. Use either x265 or SVT-AV1. In my experience, they’re close in terms of efficiency, but AV1 pulls ahead in certain situations. AV1 is more efficient about large static sections and when it breaks up it just looks blurry. 265 is better at retaining texture, but when it fails its gross digital blocks. 265 is faster than AV1, but when you push AV1 and it takes 1000 years it does a better job. Basically, run a lot of tests and then decide.

Scaling is where you go from 1440 to 1080 and is probably the least important for file size. I honestly wouldn’t bother with it, but you can try. Like I said, technically some TVs don’t like 1440, and everything supports 1080, but I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

FPS I have the least experience with. My guess is that going do something lower is going to save you some size, but its really going to depend on the codec and the content.

Quality level is the most important setting - just set it to what you think is watchable. It doesn’t use a bitrate, it adjusts the bitrate to get a constant quality level, so it’s much more efficient. It’s important to note that they aren’t exactly the same at every speed setting, so be careful.

Lastly is the speed. 265 goes from very fast to very slow, and AV1 goes from 9 (fast) to 0 (stupid slow). Personally I use slow or very slow for 265 and about 4 for AV1, but if you have a lot of video to crunch through you might want to crank that up a bit.

For audio use OPUS. 96 is the default “bitrate” and I find it to be enough. Some players don’t like it but if you’re thinking about using AV1, anything that would support AV1 supports opus.

The main thing will just be doing a bunch of video encode samples and finding the settings and workflow that’s right for you.

Something actually changed and now there’s a carry-on not included tier ticket. I wrote more in my other comment in the thread.

After having to fly United a bunch of times this summer, they changed the names of the tickets and invented a new “no one wants that” tier.

There’s now standard economy which is what everyone’s used to and gives you a “personal item” (i.e. a backpack or a purse) and a “carry on item”, and basic economy which only includes the personal item. They mention it on their website, but on third party websites its not quite as obvious which ticket you’re getting.

It has been a nightmare - on every single flight there’s a crowd of people pissed that they aren’t allowed a carry on with their ticket, with them having to run halfway across the airport to upgrade their tickets or pay 3x as much for a bag they thought was included.

If you’re being charitable, it’s a roundabout discount on checked bags to fix the problem they invented by charging for checked bags and then sucking at handling them. Every single flight I took had them asking for people to check their carry on for free because the bins were going to be overloaded, and it seems like they want to incentivize actually checking a bag again.

I started instantly asking them to gate check my carry on (for free) because honestly, the airport experience is way nicer when you don’t have to deal with your luggage all the time. If you check 1 bag as a couple you might even save money, and if you’re alone it might be worth the difference to not have to worry about only having two pairs of pants on your three week trip.

More realistically they want to normalize having to pay for carry on the same way they did checked bags, and they are trying to sneak around that by starting with only their new BS economy tier. Wouldn’t surprise me if they got rid of “basic” and just made carry on a “business class” or whatever amenity.

I’ve used stickermule a number of times, and signed up for their newsletter. They sent out a very annoying political sms blast and email like a week after they started their sms deal. They got a ton of bad press for it so I kind of doubt they do it again. Their normal weekly marketing email is usually just a sentence or two that says what’s on sale that week so it stood out. They have occasionally have the $9 for 50 deals that you can use on the same account, it seems like once every year or so. They were more common but they probably lose money on them as they have said a couple times they weren’t going to do it again.

The actual service is really good. They aren’t crap stickers, they use vinyl with good adhesive, their print quality is good, and the top vinyl layer is one of the thicker ones around. They misprinted a batch of mine and reprinted them the same day that I contacted them at no cost.

The only tip I have is to keep a design that you want printed ready to go. They cancelled a $9 for 50 order I had open but hadn’t uploaded after about 10 days. Which is kind of understandable but annoying since that’s not how their warning email says it works but whatever.

Mot and Monstrum? Why target me so precisely?

https://www.pbs.org/video/mothman-americas-notorious-winged-monster-ivhuou/

The way I’ve been thinking about would be to have the “meta community” be a separate thing from each individual community. Each individual community would opt in to joining, and would retain their own moderation and users, but the posts would be sort of cross posted to the meta community. The meta community mods largely just deal with removing posts that don’t fit. All the comments go on the original instance of the post and are moderated there, so the meta community mods might be allowed to moderate those comments on an opt in basis.

The idea is that it’s for very similar communities across different instances, but because it’s opt in there are probably other uses. The hope would be that each individual community could retain their vibe, while the meta community would have more of a firehose of content, and possibly filter some of those topics back down for more in depth discussion.

I’d also love for individual users to be able to group communities for themselves, and for those to be shareable, which seems much quicker to implement.

Do you mean specifically webcam drivers? Because Magic Lantern still works as far as I know?

https://www.magiclantern.fm/