Hey everybody! I’m the caretaker of Tabletop.place and Frostgrave.net, and I hope you all enjoy the community we’re building up.

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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 16th, 2023

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  • I would actually recommend something else entirely! For beginners, one of the best types of paints to ease into the hobby is a type of paint known as a “contrast” or “speed paint”. There are a number of brands that have paints like these. The paints are a bit thinner than normal paint, and pool into recesses of the model, creating a natural gradient of shade on the model that simulate highlights and shadow. Citadel is Games Workshop’s brand of paints, and they’re quite well regarded, but otherwise fairly expensive. For beginners, I’d recommend Army Painter, as they just released a new line of “speed paints” (their contrast paint equivalent) called “2.0” and my personal experience with the line has been very good for the price.

    https://www.thearmypainter.com/shop/us/wp8059p

    I’d recommend giving at least one Citadel contrast paint a try, just to experience it, but I’d definitely avoid the Reaper stuff as it tends to be very low quality and overpriced for what you get.

    You can grab a few miniatures on eBay fairly cheaply, but if you want, I have some models I can send your way free of charge as well, if you’d like something to test your painting skills on, as the Army Painter sets don’t include miniatures by default.

    Reaper miniatures are a bit rough, and don’t lend themselves to beginners due to the age of the sculpts.



  • Honestly, I wasn’t impressed by the first round of speed paints, the original formula, because they had a tendency to smear and reactivate. This second round though, I’m very happy with. The 2.0 formula completely fixed the reactivation and slow drying issue, but as a result, the paint dries extremely fast. For 15mm, since you’re using much less paint, this does mean that you get little working time and have to be generous with your amount of paint, but very careful in application (so pooling goes where you want it to go).

    Compared to contrast paints, which have been my go-to, its hard to pick one over the other. I really like the consistency of the AP 2.0 paints. They flow well, and more importantly, all the paints I’ve tried flow the same as one another. The paints also dry more consistently, and streak much less. Citadel contrast paints, however, probably have better, well, contrast, and some colors, like skeleton hode, create much more unique color shifts from recesses to highlights; AP2.0 pallid bone or bony matter, for instance, feel more translucent and the colour shift more one-tone.

    In general AP2.0 is more translucent though, and it takes multiple coats mucn better, and you need multiple coats more often. As a result, their paints also doesn’t separate nearly as bad as Citadel contrast paints, which have a habit of completely separating in only a few days of being unused.

    Altogether, I prefer some handful of colors from Citadel and the options for more advanced painting methods and styles, and I prefer a lot of the “just sit down and paint” usability of AP2.0, not to mention the lower cost and color selection. If someone told me to pick only one to suggest to a newcomer that wants a lot of colors to start with, I’d probably recommend the AP2.0 mega or complete set over any Citadel starter packs, but my real recommendation is to experiment with one or two of the AP2.0 paints, and see if your painting style fits the worktime and scale limitations.

    If you’re a more advanced painter, you’d likely want to use Citadel contrast and more “normal” paints because of how limiting AP2.0 can be, even if the results out of the box are very, very good. Better yet, use both in different circumstances when one works better than the other!


  • My biggest bother is that the resin base the model has built-in resists sticking to green-stuff, so the seams between the two are fairly large. I’d like to mask it with some flocking of some kind, but I also do generally like clean bases and I tend to paint to a “tabletop ready” standard rather than anything fancy. Or maybe the seams aren’t that bad, who knows!


  • Most miniature painters I know usually go without, at least with 28mm miniatures. I’ve usually stuck with that scale due to accessibility, it’s just way more common, but I’ve fallen in love with the cost and space savings of 15mm, and the board feels much bigger when you play to boot.

    With this scale, and 10mm, I always use a set of magnifying glasses with a light and flip-up lenses. They came with both headband and glasses-like adapters but as I wear glasses, I stick with the headband. They’ve been honestly one of my best purchases for painting and I even find myself using them with 28mm work as well!